Egyptian Cheese Rolls               

 tags (edit): @Vogel @Try Soon! Bread Appetizers  

 

Imagine a sort of homespun cheese-filled croissant and you'll have rarif al rarif, or Egyptian cheese rolls. Rectangular and buttery, they aren't as delicate or flaky as their French counterparts, but they're wonderfully tender, with a handsome golden exterior. They're at least twice the size of most dinner rolls and great in the bread basket for a big feast, but we recommend cutting them in half. They're a fine morning pastry too. Making them takes some time, but once you get the hang of it, you can move right along. We find it easiest to spread the process out over two days, refrigerating the rolls overnight before baking. The traditional cheese for these rolls is a salty fresh Israeli cheese called brinza. Mexican queso fresco is a good facsimile. If that's unavailable, Monterey Jack works well, as long as you season it with a little salt.

Ingredients

1 teaspoon Instant Yeast
3 3/4 cups Bread Flour
1 1/2 cups Warm Water
Salt
1 teaspoon Sugar
2 tablespoon Vegetable Oil
1 stick Unsalted Butter At Room Temperature
8 ounces Queso Fresco Or Monterey Jack
pint Fresh Mint Or Other Fresh Herbs
1 ea large Egg Beaten
pint Sesame Seeds For Sprinkling


 

Instructions
1. Whisk together the yeast and 1 1/4 cups of the flour in a large bowl, then whisk in the warm water until smooth. Let stand uncovered for 10 to 20 minutes, until it begins to ferment and puff up slightly.

2. Whisk 2 teaspoons salt, the sugar, and the oil into the yeast mixture until smooth. With your hands or a wooden spoon, stir in the remaining 2 1/2 cups flour all at once. When the mixture forms a shaggy ball, scrape it out onto your work surface and knead until it is well mixed, fairly smooth, and firm. Soak the mixing bowl in hot water to clean it and warm it for rising the dough. This dough does not require much kneading -- it just has to come together and be fairly smooth. It is stiff, though, so you will have to use some force to knead it. If the dough is too firm to knead, add a tablespoon or two of water; if it seems too wet, add a few tablespoons of flour. The dough should feel firm and stick to itself easily but not to the work surface.

3. Place the dough in the warmed clean bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. Let the dough rise until it has at least doubled in size, 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

4. Do not punch the dough down. On a lightly floured work surface, dusting with flour as needed, roll out the dough into a thin 16-inch square. Smear it with half the butter. Fold the dough into thirds like a business letter, rotate it a quarter of a turn, and fold it into thirds again. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let it relax for 30 minutes (in the refrigerator if your kitchen is warm). Repeat the rolling out, buttering, and folding, using the remaining 4 tablespoons butter. Let the dough relax again (covered) for 30 minutes, or, for the flakiest rolls, for an hour or two to cool down.

5. Generously butter a 13x9-inch baking pan. Cut the cheese into eight 4-inch-wide blocks. Roll out the dough again into a 16 inch square. Cut the square in half, then cut each piece into four equal rectangles, each 8x4 inches. Divide the cheese among the centers of the dough rectangles, sprinkling with salt (if using Monterey Jack) and/or the chopped herbs, if using. Fold the sides of each dough rectangle over the cheese, then shape the piece into a neat cylindrical bundle, making sure the cheese is completely enclosed. Place seam sides down in the pan, making 2 even rows.

6. Cover the pan well with plastic wrap. The rolls can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours at this point. Let the rolls rise until tripled in size, about 2 hours (or up to 3 hours if the rolls have been refrigerated).

7. Meanwhile, place a rack in the lower third of the oven and remove all racks above it. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

8. When the rolls have tripled and remain indented when gently pressed with your finger, brush them with the beaten egg and sprinkle with the sesame seeds, if using. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, turning the pan halfway through baking, until nicely browned. Transfer to a wire rack to cool before serving.

NOTES:* Be sure the butter is soft enough to spread easily on the dough. It's best to leave it at room temperature for several hours before using.

* The dough can be tough to roll out because it's so still. If you're having trouble getting the square to its full dimensions, stop and take a 5 to 10 minute breather (leaving the dough rolled out). The dough will relax and will be willing to stretch further when you return.

* If your kitchen is too warm, or if at any time the butter starts to get oily and ooze from the dough, transfer the whole thing to the refrigerator to let it cool.




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Yields: 8 Servings
    
BEST AMERICAN RECIPES 2005-2006, page 216

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