competitions

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Thank you all for being such a persistent bunch! Several of you asked for more information about the examination I took last Saturday, my menu, and some particulars. I am flattered by the interest.

Here you go…

My menu:

Sauce Veloute (Chicken Stock)
Sauce Espagnole (Brown Beef Stock)
Consommé Brunoise (Brown Chicken Stock)

Sole & Shrimp in the Grenobloise Style

Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast, Rosemary Farce,
Potato Puree,
Sautéed French Green Beans with Pepper Confetti,
Rosemary Supreme Sauce

Some details:

On Saturday, April 16, 2011, I took the practical examination for the Certified Chef de Cuisine through the American Culinary Federation. The practical examination is the last step in a lengthy journey to that certification – a journey that includes educational experience, work experience, courses in Nutrition, Sanitation, and Supervision, and a paper exam (I got a 90%!) — and was the one part I didn’t pass on my first attempt in February 2010.

After much reflection, refactoring of my original menu (which was too complex for this test), and lots of practice, I appeared for the practical exam this past Saturday.

Three hours of cooking, every moment (literally) of which was observed by at least one of the three judges. They watch everything — your knife skills, your sanitation, your efficiency, your utility of ingredients (just enough of each ingredient, don’t waste, store properly), your timing, the number of trips you make to the cooler, how often (and how well) you wash your hands & sanitize your station, how you handle the butchery, how you deal with dirty dishes, what you throw away, what you re-use, etc…

And that’s before they tasted a mouthful of the food I prepared!

Fortunately, I did well — I passed the exam and received praise for the quality of my butchery work on both the chicken and the fish. They really liked my potato puree — the judges commented that it was the best they’d had in a long time, and one of them asked for the recipe (he asked before I knew I passed, so I said, "I’d be willing to tell you, maybe, in a few minutes" (hinting that if I passed, I’d tell). He understood what I meant and jokingly said, "Oh no! The bribing happens BEFORE the results are announced!"). One of the other judges said he was going to change his menu for a competition he has coming up, changing it to include my potato puree.

They were also very complimentary about my sauces and my overall organization (I generated a lengthy “order of the day” document, complete with checkboxes, from which to work). I got dinged for my pile of dirty dishes and one sanitation infraction.

The judges liked the dishes I prepared… In addition to the required Sauce Espagnole, Sauce Veloute, and Consommé (I did Consommé Brunoise), I prepared a Sole appetizer with Shrimp, Lemon Juice, Buerre Noisette (brown butter), Parsley, and Capers, which I topped with a Supreme of Lemon. They felt the fish was very well cooked, but that the acidity of the dish was higher than it should have been, with the lemon juice, capers, and raw lemon contributing.

My chicken dish was Pan-Roasted Airline Breast of Chicken with a Rosemary Farce under the skin, a Rosemary Supreme Sauce, Potato Puree, and French Green Beans with Red & Yellow Pepper Brunoise. The judges complimented the caramelization of the chicken skin, the degree of doneness on the chicken, and the butchery of the chicken. They thought the farce was a little grainy (it might have been that it was overworked, or it could have used a bit more cream), and it had started to separate (one of the judges told me that farce separation is one of the most common problems in certification practicals).

They complimented my seasoning on all my dishes except the green beans, which I accidentally under seasoned (well, I didn’t technically under season them, I just seasoned them at the wrong point in the cooking process, which caused the seasoning to be washed off).

I left feeling very proud of this accomplishment!

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On Sunday, February 15, 2009, I competed in my first solo culinary competition as a member of the American Culinary Federation (“ACF”). I’ve been a member of the ACF for a while now, but have not competed. You may remember that I participated in the International Culinary Olympics in Erfurt Germany in 2008 (as documented on this site), but that was as an assistant not a competitor. That experience opened my eyes to the competition world and firmly “set the hook” of my interest.

The ACF provides lots of different categories for competitors, everything from Pastry to food-prepared-hot-but-presented-cold to hot food competitions to centerpiece displays. And more. A curious fact is that for many of these categories, the food is not consumed during judging. “Hot food” typically means that the food will be consumed — actually tasted and evaluated by the judges.

I decided to compete in Contemporary Cuisine Category K… K1 to be specific, which is the hot food category for poultry items. Competitors are provided a workstation but must bring everything else — “bring everything but the stove,” my mentor advised me – including food products, spices, herbs, knives, cutting boards, containers, plates, pots, pans, tongs, towels, etc. Participants are evaluated not only on the taste & appearance of the finished products, but also on their efficiency, butchery skills, cleanliness & sanitation, and how much product they waste. Chefs compete only against themselves — there can be multiple winners at each level, depending on the day.

Schedules were sent out via email… I saw that I was to begin at 10:45am and the instructions indicated that we should arrive 30 minutes early. Wendy, who decided to join me for the day, and I arrived at the competition by 10:00am. Upon checking in, I was informed that the schedule was wrong and that I would actually start at 11:30, which gave me plenty of time to sit around. I stowed my equipment and food (all of which I’d put on a speed rack) in the cooler and walked around to see what else was going on in the building.

There were beautiful pastry displays, pulled & poured sugar work, and cold food items (cold food is food that is “prepared hot but presented cold”, and is what my team took to Germany. This food is not tasted.) and lots of nervous chefs at various points in their competitions.

Finally, my time rolled around and I retrieved my cart and set up my station. Competitors are given 10-15 minutes to get set up, then the time begins. Dutifully, I set up my carefully-thought-out station and was ready to go in plenty of time.

My menu, which I was to prepare in one hour, was:

  • The tenderloins of a chicken removed and made into a farce with rosemary, then stuffed under the skin of the breasts, which are pan roasted.
  • Thighs boned out & trussed, braised with the legs (from which I removed the tendons)
  • Braised batonnet of winter vegetables (carrot, onion, parsnip, and turnip)
  • Potato puree
  • Sauce made from reduced braising liquid that was fortified with some veal glace. This went with the braised items.
  • A sauce made from reduced stock, cream, and rosemary to go with the breasts. This was garnished with a brunoise of carrot.

The challenge I encountered through my run-throughs in preparation for the competition was the sequencing of steps. As complex as the menu sounds, it’s actually quite manageable within an hour — provided one has carefully thought out their procedure (“order of the day,” as I call it). After several run-throughs both at home and at school, I had my order down very well.

Things were going according to schedule until approximately 20 minutes into my time. I’d butchered my chicken, preheated my pans, and turned to place my chicken pieces in the pan to begin searing off. Instead of the angry SIZZLE that normally accompanys this move, I heard a weakening SI-zz-le… I thought I’d forgotten to turn the pans on, and when I checked, the knobs were in their full-open position. I hadn’t forgotten. I glanced under the pan just in time to see my flames — all of them — go out. We’d lost gas to the building because of a gas line break somewhere in the system. The competition ground to a halt and we were given the options of waiting it out, continuing on (the chef right next to me was moments away from finishing, so he finished up), or aborting. After deliberation, I decided to press on and finish my run. I was the only chef in my room to make this decision. I was provided with four butane-powered “camp stoves”, and I completed my competition.

My dishes turned out well, and I left the room feeling confident that I’d represented myself well. After the tasting, I received a few minutes of one-on-one evaluation from one of the judges, which was extremely helpful for future competitions. I took copious notes!

After a lunch break, we attended the medal ceremony, where I won a bronze medal. My mentor told me that this was significant because he’d competed several times before medaling. He said he was proud of me for medaling my first time out.

The item on the left side of the plate is either the braised boneless chicken thigh or a braised chicken leg. The vegetables (parsnips, carrots, onions, and turnips) are cut batonnet and braised with the legs & thighs.

The darker sauce is a reduction of the braising liquid, fortified with some veal glace. In the center is a potato puree with some cream and butter mixed in — very smooth.

On the right side of the plate is an airline chicken breast, stuffed under the skin with a farce made from the chicken tenderloins, cream, and salt & pepper. The chicken breasts are pan-roasted.

The lighter sauce is a stock reduction with cream and rosemary and it is garnished with a brunoise of carrot (brunoise is a square cut, 1/8 inch cubed).

Now the hook is firmly set — I love competing. I spent the next several days thinking of things I will do differently next time I compete. And there WILL be a next time!

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DSC_4632 The following is Chef Alan Neace’s Category A Entry in the 2008 International Culinary Olympics in Erfurt Germany. Photos after the jump.

  • Turkey Platter for Eight
    • Nadine Roasted Turkey Breast
    • Tewis Style Corned Turkey Thigh
    • Applewood Smoked and Stuffed Burlington Wing
    • Kinsella Neck Sausage with Dried Fruit
    • Celery and Golden Raisin Salad
    • Marinated Haricot Vert
    • Markham Poached Pears with Stilton Mousse
    • Spiced Peach Chutney
    • Creamy Chive Herb Sauce
  • Kent Island Fruits de Mer
    Sole, lobster, and mussels, warm herb scented tomato water, concasser, corn, and cucumber noodles.
  • Phillipe Foie Gras Trio
    Terrine with pickled sweet potato tear drops and orange pomegranate reduction; Torchon with aged balsamic, roasted figs, appled and  petite greens; Mousse atop toasted fennel scented brioche, grey sea salt, and caramelized apple.
  • Kentucky Rabbit
    Roasted rack of Owensborough-raised rabbit, fine herb farce, rich rabbit jus, warm roasted beet, and almond leg croquette atop warm sweet and sour red potato.
  • St. Rona’s Divers Plate
    Sea scallop and serrano paired with snow crab agnolloti, bokchoy, spaghetti squash, fava beans, orange herb reduction and a Soubise citrus sauce.
  • Duck Vonden Bancon Style
    Duck Osso Bucco style with pinot noir braising sauce paired with a hot smoked shiitake barded breast, celeriac puree, butternut squash, zucchini and rutabaga, cranberry compote.
  • Vegetarian Splendor
    Grilled portabella with florentine panada, warm sumac crusted calypso bean sausage, crispy polenta with gorgonzola, asparagus and sundried tomato, black mustard seed and smoked tomato jam, and green curry.

Read the rest of this entry »

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PA220198 The following is Chef Greg Skibinski’s Category B Entry in the 2008 International Culinary Olympics in Erfurt Germany. Photos after the jump.

  • West Side Three Course Meal
    • Smoke Roasted Squab Breast with Cucumber
    • Black Peppercorn Creamy Herb Sauce=-=-
    • Poached Lobster Tail with Corn Custard and Turned Potatoes in Broth=-=-
    • Grand Marnier Mousse with Macerated Fruit and Duet of Passion Fruit and Pomegranate Sauces
  • Owensville Duck Platter for Two
    • Roasted Leg of Duck
    • Duck Breast and Shiitake
    • Sweet Potatoes
    • Vegetable Accompaniment
    • Essence of Orange Duck Jus
  • St. Omar Wild Boar Chop
    • Cous Cous
    • Vegetable Medley
    • Natural Jus
  • Mediterranean Roulade
    • Turkey Tenderloin
    • Poached Pear
    • Polenta
    • Haricot Vert
    • Turkey Reduction
  • Quinoa a la Quito
    • Quinoa Stuffed Cabbage Wrap
    • Vegetable Terrine
    • Stuffed Portabella Mushroom
    • Sweet Chili Sauce
  • Terra Haute Striped Bass
    • Onion Tart
    • Rutabega
    • Fennel Sauce

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The IKA, the so-called Culinary Olympics, is among the most prominent of culinary competitions. Held every four years, the most recent was held in Erfurt Germany, in October 2008 and was the 23rd competition.

Competing for medals and top honors were a record 32 national culinary teams from 32 countries, 12 pastry teams, 16 student teams, 12 military teams, and more than 30 regional teams representing many countries, plus individual competitors from around the world. Chefs from all over the world take time from their families and jobs to have a chance to step onto the world culinary stage and cook at this competition.

National Geographic photo from the event.

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PA220199 It’s been an absolutely amazing, exhausting, enjoyable visit to Germany. The kind folks at the Quality Hotel in Gotha made us feel welcome and appreciated as we prepared for and participated in the 2008 International Culinary Olympics in Erfurt Germany. The hotel chef and the hotel staff were extremely generous and kind to us.

We are very pleased with the performance of the Midwest Culinary Olympic Team as we earned two bronze medals in this competition. Additionally, Rick Potter & Alan Neace coached the Guatemalan team in their first-ever International Culinary Olympic participation, and the team earned a silver medal. Congratulations to the Guatemalan team and to Chefs Potter and Neace!

After the competition in Erfurt was over and we packed our equipment for shipping back to the United States and cleaned our preparation room, we celebrated in the hotel’s lobby with the hotel staff and members of the other teams, including folks from the Swedish, Slovakian, and Canadian teams. We had a great evening and enjoyed the Olympic spirit of camaraderie and cooperation with the other teams. Hanging out in the lobby and conversing with the other teams will be remembered as a highlight of the trip.

PA240248 The next morning on October 23 (mentioned because it was my birthday!) I drove the team from Gotha to Munich. We were tired when we arrived after the long van trip and checking into the hotel, but our energy was bolstered at the original Hofbrauhaus, where we enjoyed traditional German food and beverages. It was a really good evening, though it ended rather early.

The next morning, we checked out of our hotel and stopped for a few photographs then went back to the shops near the Hofbrauhaus and shopped for various items and a few gifts to bring back to the States. There was a knife shop in the little row of shops, and a couple of us found nice cooking knives. Also, there was a terrific little gelato place, so Rick & I got gelatos. We couldn’t resist another visit to the Hofbrauhaus before leaving Munich.

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After our lunch, we found our way back to the van and headed for Frankfurt where we will sleep in the airport hotel in order to be ready to catch our plane in the early afternoon. Brian and I got the van cleaned out and our final packing done.

Tomorrow, we get on the plane back to Cincinnati. It has been a wonderful, inspiring trip, but it will be nice to get home again.

There is still more to write, including an article that reveals our platters and plates from the competition. You can expect that – and more – in the very near future.

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