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I earned my Certified Culinarian!

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Some days, big things change in the blink of an eye.

Your direction is modified. Your course, previously charted, requires attention anew.

This is one of those days.

This is very exciting.

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During the early part of September each year, the Bethesda Foundation hosts GOURMET SENSATION, one of their signature fund-raising events. Since 1988, chefs from all around the world as well as local chefs have shared their culinary creations with an ever-growing and appreciative crowd to raise funds for Hospice of Cincinnati. This year’s event was on Saturday, September 8, 2007 at the Lindner Family Tennis Center in Mason, Ohio.

Gourmet Sensation table display

My involvment with GOURMET SENSATION is as an appreciative guest, but I am involved with an event that occurs before GOURMET SENSATION — that is the chefs’ appreciation dinner the night before. For more than 12 years, Michael & Kathy Brown have prepared a multi-course meal for the chefs and their guests. For two of the last three years, Michael & Kathy have allowed me to assist them with preparations and service of this meal (I missed helping in 2006 because I was on vacation). This grand meal is presented in the beautiful dining room of the Cincinnatian Hotel, in their Palace restaurant which closes for the evening to allow Michael and his crew to move in and work in the hotel’s kitchens. This year, we served over 70 people.

On Thursday and Friday September 6 & 7, I went to the Brown’s house to assist with preparation of the meal. Several other professional cooks and enthusiastic amateurs show up to work for short or long shifts at the Brown’s house, so their large kitchen is crowded and bustling with activity.

The menu Michael & Kathy designed was as follows:

  • Home Cured Wild Coho Salmon and Gazpacho
    2006 Gunderloch “Redstone” Riesling (Rheinhessen, Germany)
  • Medallion of Foie Gras, Viognier Gelee and Fig Compote
    2003 Gregory Graham Viognier (Napa Valley)
  • Walleye with Braised Artichokes, Artichoke Puree and Lobster Mushrooms
    2006 Four Sisters Sauvignon Blanc (South Eastern Australia)
  • Loin of Veal, Sweetbread, Corn and Apple Ravioli, Honey Crisp Apples and Calvados Sauce
    2004 Four Sisters Shiraz (South Eastern Australia)
  • Epí
  • Couronne Lochoise, Roasted Beets and Pistachios
    2005 Chateau Calabre (Montravel, France)
    2004 Domaine de Pallus Chinon (Loire, France)
  • Chocolate Caramel Walnut Tart
    2003 Gregory Graham “Red Hills” Syrah (Lake County)

The gazpacho was novel — Michael used gelatin filtration (as discussed in McGee’s column in the New York Times (registration required)) so the resulting liquid was intensely flavorful and crystal clear with a reddish tint. The home cured salmon was very tasty (though I only had a nibble).

I prefer seared foie gras to cold, but this preparation of the foie in a tourchon was quite nice (when isn’t foie gras nice?!) and very simple to serve, though I didn’t love the plating — I thought it looked a little crowded. Still, the plates were virtually licked clean when they came back, so the crowd must have been happy. The Viognier gelee was tasty and attractive.

The walleye was cooked very well (Keith has been cooking at the Palace for longer than he cares to admit, and he’s got a real master’s touch with fish and meats), and the lobster mushrooms were a very nice compliment to the flavor of the fish.

A personal favorite dish was the veal — it was beautifully prepared and cooked — very tender, and the sweetbread, corn, and apple ravioli were quite tasty.

Couronne LochoiseThe cheese in the cheese course — the Couronne Lochoise, a soft and creamy raw goat’s milk cheese from the Loire valley — was absolutely delicious, though before we portioned them, the individual cheeses looked like glazed yeast doughnuts! We cut each “doughnut” (actually, the word “Couronne” means “crown”) into four wedge-shaped pieces, which was a generous cheese course. The roasted beets & pistachios were wonderful together (very earthy) and complimented the cheese very well. This was one of my favorite elements of the meal.

After the cheese course came Kathy’s delicious Chocolate Caramel Walnut Tart, a beauty for the eyes and a delight on the tongue. Even though I am not a “chocolate person”, I certainly appreciated the rich flavors of this dessert. We served it with a squiggle of Syrah reduction to decorate the plate.

Service of the meal went very quickly and smoothly — Gina, Jody, Tarrick, and others made light work of the plating and service. The menu was well planned and well prepped, so there was very little that needed to be done a la minute. Once service was done, we were taken out into the restaurant and presented to the appreciative crowd.

It was nice to recognize many faces from my previous GOURMET SENSATION experience — good to see Juho and othersm and it was nice to connect with new faces like Nancy & Steve from Baltimore! A few drinks were poured, a lot of conversation, and then I went home and sacked out! I heard reports that lots of the guest chefs went out and painted the town red — some reported getting back to their hotel rooms at 4:30am!

The next evening, Wendy & I attended the GOURMET SENSATION and were very impressed with the dishes prepared by the chefs. While every dish was tasty (and we tried them all), standouts included the bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with bleu cheese, the venison burgers, the sticky toffee pudding, the short ribs, the soft-shell crab, and the fish-in-coconut-milk-broth. A nice upgrade this year was the keepsake wine glass and plastic plate (with wine glass holder). It made juggling food, forks, and wine much easier than before.

Wendy & I were invited to go out with the chefs after GOURMET SENSATION and we intended to… We really did! We went home for a bit of downtime between the event and the partying, and never managed to get back up again to go out. So we missed a good time with the chefs, but I’ve made a promise to myself that next year we will make it!

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From this site comes this week’s “10 on Tuesday” question… “What are 10 interesting websites you’d like to share?”. Here are mine, in alphabetical order:

  1. AbeBooks — amazing prices on hard-to-find books. I get lots of vintage cookbooks through AbeBooks.
  2. Audible — I love audiobooks, and this is where I get them. If you sign up, mention that “vogelap” sent you!
  3. Blender.ORG — I am not a graphic/3D artist, but if I was, I would use Blender. I support and follow Blender development.
  4. Blue’s News — I am an avid gamer (time permitting). Blue’s site keeps me up-to-date on what’s happing in the gaming world.
  5. eGullet & forum – this is the best food-related site & forum on the web, and is where the pros hang out. So much culinary information it will fry your brain.
  6. EverNoteforum – simply the best note-management (and much more) software for the PC. Check this out — it will revolutionize your information-management tasks. There are both free and paid versions of the software — most users can be happy with just the free version.
  7. I Can Has Cheezburger — LOLcats make me LOL.
  8. Lifehacker — constantly informative, constantly interesting. Great resource for GTD tips & tools.
  9. Over The Rhine.COM & the Orchard – the official website and forum for a wonderful Cincinnati-based band. I run their forums. Songs available here.
  10. SnapStream — home of the Personal Video Recorder (PVR) software that I use. Amazing stuff — throw away your TiVO!

Enjoy these sites! Let me know of your favorite sites in comments…

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TelephoneSince stumbling upon Counterscript some time ago, I have been on a relentless campaign against telemarketers that enter my home through the telephone. My campaign is called “Reactive Telemarketing”.

Whenever a telemarketer calls, I immediately begin asking them questions as listed on the Counterscript (though I do not follow it precisely). Most of the time, the telemarketers don’t mind spelling their name, or telling me how long they’ve been in ‘the business’ (I am surprised at how often their reply is, “this is my first day!”), or offering their opinion about their job, but generally start resisting when the discussion of their income comes up. Several telemarketers have laughed aloud as I ask the pointless questions. Only a few make it through the discussion of the importance of dental health into the promised land of “what toothpaste would you recommend?”. I heartily thank those few that make it that far, wish them well, and hang up the phone – almost certainly leaving a laughing, confused telemarketer on the other end.

I feel that the most important aspect of the Counterscript is to play it straight. Be completely earnest in your pursuit of “completing [your] study”. When they ask what the study is about, I depart the Counterscript and tell them I am studying the “effects of reactive telemarketing”. Sometimes, that answer seems to satisfy them. Other times, not so much. The more serious you are, the funnier.

A couple times, the telemarketer has bounced me up to a manager and this is where playing it straight really becomes important. I generally take the approach that the manager is an equal to my position on my “study”, and approach them with, “Can you help me? Your telemarketer isn’t giving me the requested information. I’ve already started to complete this study form and can’t just throw it away. Can you answer these questions on behalf of the telemarketer?”. Sometimes they do, but frequently they do not and I ask for someone else — “perhaps someone with more authority,” I say — who would be able to answer on the telemarketer’s behalf. This is usually when they hang up on me.

This approach feels less aggressive toward the telemarketers (though my wife disagrees — “just tell them we’re not interested and hang up,” she suggests) and an enjoyable way to get the point across that we don’t want their calls.

Gotta go — the phone is ringing!

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7 DAYS FOR SIDS

June 11-June 17 2007 is 7 DAYS FOR SIDS week in the Cincinnati area. SIDS is Sudden Infant Death Syndrome, which is the number one cause of death for infants aged one week to one year. 7 DAYS FOR SIDS was founded by Jean-Robert de Cavel and his wife, Annette following the tragic death of their baby daughter Tatiana to SIDS on June 13 2002.

Money raised from 7 DAYS FOR SIDS benefits the Sudden Infant Death Network of Ohio by providing research, education, and parental support as well as the Tatiana de Cavel Scholarship Fund at the Midwest Culinary Institute. The mission of the Sudden Infant Death Network of Ohio is to work towards the reduction and eventual elimination of SIDS through a multidisciplinary approach of: the promotion of infant health and wellness, community outreach, education, and medical research. In addition, the Sudden Infant Death Network is dedicated to providing supportive services to those who have been affected by the loss of a child, age 2 and under, from a Sudden Infant Death (SIDS) or Other Infant Death (OID).

More than 30 restaurants and businesses are participating in the event.

In just four years, 7 DAYS FOR SIDS has raised more than $300,000, making it the largest SIDS fundraiser in the United States. While de Cavel is elated by this success and grateful for other restaurants’ generosity, the week of his daughter’s death is still painful.

“It is not necessarily a week when I have a good time,” he says. “But I think it’s the best thing I could’ve done for the memory of our daughter.” (via Cincinnati Enquirer)

One of the showcase events of the week is Chefapalooza on Tuesday June 12 at the Midwest Culinary Institute at Cincinnati State Technical and Community College. Chefapalooza features famed New Southern Cooking Movement chef Nathalie Dupree who joins Jean-Robert de Cavel and David Cook (of Daveeds at 934) for lively cooking demonstrations. Samples of the food prepared by these three chefs will be available, paired with wine, after the event. Hosts for the evening are Jean-Robert de Cavel and Meg Calvin. This event is affordable at $50/pp but tickets to this event go rather quickly, so reserve while tickets are still available.

Another important event is Homerama Cooks for a Cure on Wednesday June 13. The ultimate test kitchen: chefs from the area’s top restaurants present cooking demonstrations in designer homes, and you get to eat the results! Tickets are available at the door, $12.

The events of the week culminate in a Father’s Day Brunch & Silent Auction at the Cincinnati Museum Center. All your brunch favorites prepared by chefs from the best restaurants in town: Andy’s Mediterranean Grille, Aqua, Boca, Behle Street Cafe, Cumin, Daveed’s at 934, Deco Dining, Encore Bistro & Bar, Heidelberg Distributing, Honey, JR French Restaurant Group, Kona Bistro, Lattitudes, Nectar, One Restaurant & Lounge, RED, Taste from Belgium, Trauth Dairy, Vinyl, and Woodford Reserve. Advanced purchase tickets are $60 or $70 at the door.

For a full list of participating restaurants and their specials, see this PDF poster or visit the 7 DAYS FOR SIDS web site.

Says de Cavel: “When we hear people want to help, it’s no longer surprising. But it’s still overwhelming.”

Just remember: your appetite can help the cause!

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