Cooking & Kitchen

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 One Night Twelve Kitchens 2007
One Night, Twelve Kitchens
April 29, 6-9 pm
Midwest Culinary Institute at Cincinnati State College 

 

Top regional chefs showcase the eleven state-of-the-art kitchens at Midwest Culinary Institute to benefit the Cincinnati State College Foundation culinary scholarships.

I have participated in this event for the last few years and was very happy to work it again this year. I was assigned to Chef Neace, representing the Summit Room, the restaurant at Cincinnati State. The event was very well attended — I would estimate more than 400 guests.

We prepared a smoked duck breast salad with cherry caponate quinoia, microgreen salad with peach vinagrette, and a drizzle of poppyseed yogurt dressing alongside. We sliced the duck breast thin and put it in a ring mold (okay, PVC pipes), pressed in a bit of the quinoia, then topped with the dressed microgreens. It was a very nice looking dish and our guests enjoyed it very much. We ’sold out’ fairly early, so I was able to get cleaned up and walk around to see what was going on at the other tables.

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I’ve worked at Jean-Robert at Pigall’s a few times this year, and noticed that I failed to blog those visits. Back on Saturday, February 3rd, I worked at the restaurant and cut the daylights out of my left middle finger (see this picture for a diagram of the cut) with a new knife. With the assistance of Raymond, I got bandaged up (well, DUCT-TAPED up), gloved, and went right back to work. I finished my shift; something I am proud of. Once I got home, Wendy was able to treat the wound, bandage, and look after it — it has healed with only a tiny scar. Honestly, I was hoping for a more substantial physical rememberance of that event!

On March 10, I worked again at Jean-Robert at Pigall’s. It turns out that it was a great night for me to work — one of the line cooks was on vacation, one of them went home sick (she was there when I arrived and looked like crap, so Chef said she could go home), and it was a moderately busy evening. As a result of my presence, there was enough staff to allow shifiting of responsibilities.

My rough drawing of the layout of the kitchen at Pigall'sAfter quickly training me on the amuse bouche station (she’d completed all the mise en place for the station), Abby was freed to go work the apps station with Rob (who was covering for vacationing Sarah). Raymond ran the fish station for sick Amanda. With Abby checking on me, I was able to cover the amuse station for the evening. The amuse was an egg mimosa stack; a duck purse (cream cheese, duck confit, and duck liver wrapped in filo dough and baked); a small piece of toast, and pickled cucumber with a drizzle of sweet mustard under the duck purse and around the plate. A demitasse cup of rutabegga soup topped with chantilly cream and chives went along with it.

Another responsibility of the station is to begin the flow of order tickets from servers to the cooks, so once the servers took my amuse, I drew a line down the column indicating they’d been sent and hung the order ticket on the hanger bar on the line. From there, the order ticket moved to indicate what course the guests were enjoying, from cold & hot apps to their main dishes, then back to ‘my’ section of the hanger bar for desserts. I moved Karen’s awesome desserts down from the window to the pass table for Chef’s final examination before it went to the dining room. By keeping an eye on the tickets, the diner’s progress through their evening can be tracked at a glance — I had a couple friends celebrating in the restaurant that evening (hi Doug & Kevin!) and I was able to monitor their progress easily.

I also had responsibility for any cheese courses that were ordered. When a cheese order came in, I set up a long rectangular plate with 5 different types of cheese (including a spoonful of Epoisses de Bourgogne, Wendy’s favorite), a quinelle of pear chutney in one corner, and a blob of a citrus-rind-y dice in the other corner, and a drizzle of port reduction down the length of the plate. Cheese plates are served with three types of toast in a ‘cup with ears’ on an underliner.

Stationed where I was, I was elbow-to-elbow with Jean-Robert for the whole evening. He was in a good mood, and since it was a moderately busy evening, we had the opportunity to chat, which was very enjoyable. I also got to observe him finishing each plate and saw the care and detail he puts into each and every plate that goes out. He also allowed me to call in a bunch of orders.

It was a good night, but I was tired at the end of the shift so I cleaned my station and only had one beer before heading home.

A mystery!Jean-Robert absolutely insisted that I post this picture of one of Cincinnati’s warmest, friendliest, and (generally) best-dressed people in a costume for a fourth of July party. The individual in question was careless enough to allow this picture to fall into my hands. Please excuse the rather low quality of the picture — it was scanned from a picture printed on a color printer. Perhaps the owner of the original picture would be so kind as to send me a high-quality digital file so I can replace it? That way, it would be easier for curious viewers to see the long flowing locks, the dog collar, the leopard skin pants, the studded belt, and the fur-lined jacket. And is that a lip-ring?  Would anyone care to guess who this character might be? (click the picture for a larger view)

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THE MINIMALIST; The Secret of Great Bread: Let Time Do the Work
By MARK BITTMAN
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/08/dining/08mini.html, originally published in the New York Times on November 8, 2006.

INNOVATIONS in bread baking are rare. In fact, the 6,000-year-old process hasn’t changed much since Pasteur made the commercial production of standardized yeast possible in 1859. The introduction of the gas stove, the electric mixer and the food processor made the process easier, faster and more reliable.

I’m not counting sliced bread as a positive step, but Jim Lahey’s method may be the greatest thing since.

This story began in late September when Mr. Lahey sent an e-mail message inviting me to attend a session of a class he was giving at Sullivan Street Bakery, which he owns, at 533 West 47th Street in Manhattan. His wording was irresistible: ”I’ll be teaching a truly minimalist breadmaking technique that allows people to make excellent bread at home with very little effort. The method is surprisingly simple — I think a 4-year-old could master it — and the results are fantastic.”

I set up a time to visit Mr. Lahey, and we baked together, and the only bad news is that you cannot put your 4-year-old to work producing bread for you. The method is complicated enough that you would need a very ambitious 8-year-old. But the results are indeed fantastic.

Read the rest of this entry »

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After working at my day job, I headed down to Jean-Robert at Pigall’s to work a party with Raymond in the third-floor kitchen. The atmosphere in the main kitchen was very different than when I work on Saturdays. Saturday nights are very busy at the restaurant, and everyone is extremely focused. On Wednesday, we’re not quite as busy so the mood and tone are a bit lighter; still focused, but lighter.

I enjoyed working with Raymond and having the chance to converse with folks in the kitchen — Mike, Amanda, Sarah, Abby, Karen, Rob(bie), Jeremy, Emily, Luke, and Raymond. Did I forget anyone? I don’t think so… Ah yes! The two guys in the dish tank. That’s everyone. I’ve mentioned everyone.

I finished the party and hung around for a bit before heading home for the evening. It was still early — only 9:30.

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For the first time in about 6 weeks, I worked at Jean-Robert at Pigall’s. For the first time in far too long, I stayed all the way through service instead of doing prep and leaving, which has been the style for some time owing to my schedule. And, or the first time ever, I hung out with the gang after service as well.

I arrived at the restaurant at 1:30pm and was greeted warmly by Raymond who was working hard in the butcher shop. Jeremy came downstairs and presented me with my own Jean-Robert at Pigall’s chef’s jacket — with my name embroidered below the restaurant’s logo. I am the only non-employee ever to receive such a jacket. I switched out of my generic chef’s jacket and into my new one. Suddenly, everything changed — I feel like I am truly part of the team, and am very, very happy and proud to be so.

We moved into prep mode, getting everything ready for the evening’s service. My general approach is to speak with Jeremy, the chef d’cuisine, and find out who needs the most help and then do whatever I can for them. I bumped into Luke in the cooler and commented to him that his back must ache working day after day, because mine was killing me after only a few hours. In his trademark deadpan delivery, Luke simply said to me, “Andrew, I’m young” and walked away. I’ve never felt so old.

I made raviolis, parsley puree, cous cous purses in phylo dough, and more. After getting cleaned up from prep, I was invited by Jeremy to work on appetizers during service. I helped with opening oysters, painting plates for various dishes, and more (quenelles, my long-time nemesis, were flying off my spoons onto plates — looking great).

As service heated up, Jeremy moved me over to work the fish line with Amanda, who was getting slammed because everyone seemed to order fish tonight. She trained me briefly on what to do, which mostly involved setting up items as orders came in, searing off proteins (scallops, red snapper, black bass), and working garnishes as they were called for pickup. Amanda and I had a good time while keeping ourselves out of the weeds (too deeply). I really enjoyed working the line. During half-time (the eerie eye-of-the-storm quiet time between seatings), Jeremy and I discussed moving me to the meat station, but decided against it because fish got slammed again the in the second half. So, I worked with Amanda again for the second half. I feel a good rapport with her; I think we work together well.

After service, I was feeling pretty tired (and my back was hurting) but I hung out (sitting on my butt, a glass of wine in hand!) while the gang did a quick-but-thorough cleaning of the kitchen. I accompanied them to O’Malley’s in the Alley, a bar just down the back alley from the restaurant for a few drinks before heading home.

It was a very good evening.

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Tonight’s meal was just scraps of items left from the recreation at Cincinnati State of the last meal aboard the Titanic. I was the sous chef for this party, and it went pretty well. Dinner was leftover chicken, fish, beef, and vegetables.

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